With Millers Oil and Dynolite we carry the leading brands for classic cars in our shop. Millers Oil from UK and Dynolite from France cover all needs for the classic car enthusiast. If you are not shure witch engine oil you have to use in your classic use our oil-finder and go the the shop to order. If you have a specific question send us an e-mail we are glad to assist you.

The ideal product for every application

Modern engine design is driven by the need to reduce emissions and fuel
consumption. One of the solutions is to reduce the viscosity of the engine oil. The effect of these thinner oils in older engines can be disastrous. Modern additives offer very high levels of protection and it is the quality of this additive package that gives this performance. These additive packages can be used to great benefit in formulations for older engines. Millers use these modern additives in period formulations for the Classic range.
Engine oils can be separated into the following category/age definitions to help the vehicle owner decide which is the ideal lubricant for their application.

Non detergent mono grades

These oils are suited to veteran and vintage cars manufactured before 1940.
Many such vehicles did not have any sophisticated form of filtration and the engines were designed to allow the oil to deposit the products of combustion in ledges in the crankcase. As a result, frequent oil changes and engine rebuilds were the norm. The Miller and Penrite range is a superior oil to the original specified lubricants i.e. without dispersants/detergents to solubilise any deposits. It contains modern additives that reduces wear and prevents oxidation and rusting.

Mono grades with detergents

These oils are suited to veteran and vintage vehicles where a mono grade is required and the owner is confident that there is no dirt and products of combustion collected in the crankcase. i.e. the engine has been reconditioned recently. Vehicles built during the period 1940 to early 1960s with superior oil filtration systems were designed to run on mono grade oils with some detergent/dispersant additives. The dispersant additives in the oil will collect the products of combustion and hold it in suspension within the oil whilst the detergent and sophisticated additive
package will also offer protection levels similar to a modern oil. However it may still be necessary to use a lower viscosity oil in cold weather and a higher viscosity in warmer weather (typically SAE30 for winter and SAE40 for Summer).

CLASSIC 20w50 Mineral

Classic grade mineral oils were introduced in the early 1960s and solved the problem of using a different grade in summer versus winter. Multi grade oils consist of relatively light base oils with the addition of viscosity modifiers (VIs) to produce a high viscosity reading at 100 degrees centigrade. VI's consist of long chain polymeric materials that coil up tightly at cold temperatures and uncoil (and take up more volume) at high temperatures thereby increasing the viscosity of the base oil. This gives the oil the characteristic of a thin oil at low temperatures and a thicker oil at high temperatures.
Classic 20W50 is an all mineral high quality SAE 20W50 oil with a modern additive package.

CLASSIC SPORT 20w50 Semi synthetic

The synthetic technology in SAE20W50 viscometrics to produce the highest quality classic multi grade. Synthetics have superior cold flow characteristics, lower volatility, higher resistance to oxidation, and higher temperature capability than mineral oils. 20W50 is the ultimate engine oil formulation for your classic engine. Classic Sport offers ultimate protection in arduous conditions and has been proven in historic racing and rallying over many years.

Classic Trans M 20w50 mineral

This unique oil is formulated for 1960's and onwards engines where the engine and transmission share a common lubricant. It is the ideal lubricant for Minis and classic bikes where the clutch runs in engine oil. The additive package protects ball, roller and needle bearings found in the gearbox and provides EP protection levels higher than conventional engine oil and equal to the typically specified API GL-4 for gearboxes.

Classic Trans M Sport 20w50

This is the semi synthetic version of Classic Trans M 20w50 and offers all the benefits associated with Classic Sport 20w50.

Note: Multi grade oils are NOT recommended for engines which employ roller-bearing crankshafts

Why is an oil change necessary?


Engine oils The good characteristics of a new oil decrease on the one hand with increasing age (time factor) and on the other hand with each put back kilometer (Abrasion-Factor). It builds condensation water by the variations in temperature in the engine, dilution oil with gasoline condensate, oxygen oxidation, pressure and shear loads etc. make to the oil more difficult it to fulfill its tasks reliably and to prevent damage to construction units and camps. For these reasons it is very important to change the oil and the oil filter once in the year or with reaching the prescribed number of kilometers. Even if the vehicle is  moved not very often or and in a "dry" garage is located, the quality of the oil decreases. By the humidity and the oxygen, which are always present in our breathing air, an aging in such a way specified (oxidation) takes place. This reduces chemical stability and the corrosion prevention properties of the oil.



Standard-, Automatic-Transmission and Axle oils


The aging process of these oils runs similarly that of an engine oil. The contamination due to chemical reactions is substantially smaller, however ensure the extremely high teeth profile pressures, which develop between the gear wheels (shearing stress), for a strong line clearing of these oils. Therefore here a transmission oil changing is recommended every 3 - 4 years. With transmissions with overdrive, because of the additional abrasion of the Overdrive clutch, an additional Overdrive filter change or cleaning is recommended. When is the correct time to the oil change? The optimal time to the oil change with oldtimer vehicles is before wintering the vehicle, thus toward end of the autumn. There are several reasons that speaks for it self:



         New oil protects the engine better against internal corrosion.

        The new oil contains fewer condensation.

         By the still fully intact Antioxidanten the aging of the unused oil is substantially small.

         Used oil is strongly interspersed with gasoline arrears. Develop acids, which are responsible for harmful          reactions at the engine construction parts.


Result: Who wants to protect its engine on a long-term basis, the oil at the end of the driving season replaces. The summer dresses are also not stored dirtily over the winter.



How many kilometers up to the next oil change?


With most vehicles from the 30'er to 50'er years by the manufacturer was prescribed to wait between 1'600 to 2'400 kilometer or 1'000 to 1'500 miles the vehicle. Starting from the 60'er years, particularly owing to the multis-grade oil arisen at that time, the intervals up to 5'000 kilometer or 3'000 miles were increased. Starting from end of the 70'er years came the first vehicles with up to 10'000 km oil change interval. However already at that time, as also still today required of most vehicle manufacturers that in the minimum once in the year the oil and the oil filter are changed, independently of whether the maximum number of kilometers was reached or not.